12/27: Adios Argentina

Buenos Aires, 20km (total of 10,400 km driven)

On our last day in Argentina, in Buenos Aires and on our holiday we need to make sure the main must-sees are covered.
The obelisk is well lit. Takes us a while to get the orientation. Somehow, the hotel is on the other side of the street in our mental map of town...

Then as the weather gets hotter and sunnier we head to the Cementerio de Recoleta. A lively place that attracts street musicians as well as tourists in masses. Under a tree we enjoy some empanadas and watch the fight for the best place to play the harmonica, play the harp and dance a lonesome tango.

We have reached our peace of mind as we have found the mercado to buy meat (Disco) just before. We get into the cemetery. Its splendor strikes us and we probably spend the afternoon there cruising the alley along the monuments and graves. It gets so hot that we just need some water and juice and not far beyond a beer and a Coke. In between we buy 1.25kg of bife de lomo, have it wrapped the best we can and walk off in search of the hotel that we miss and we need to backtrack...

Overheated we change cloths from summer to winter and hit the road to the airport - all easy. The hand off to Sixt is very easy, too: we know the windshield was damaged by rocks on the gravel roads of Chile - so no big deal.

At the airport I already feel sorry for not having had yet another last steak in town... I'll miss the lomos dearly.

12/26: Pièce de réstistance

Mendoza to Buenos Aires, 1100 km

Claudio's turn to drive, of course. We get up at 6, are surprised that the breakfast buffet in the hotel is already ready and the gas station around the block. With one gas stop, several other necessary stops we make it in good time to Bs. As.

After being back at our old hotel (different room), we hit the streets again. We go to the highly recommended parillada place in town - and are not disappointed at all. Great service, good feel (dead animals staring down at us), and greatest meat. What a perfect last meal.

12/25: Four chairs and a table in the car

Mendoza, 200km

Today we explore deserted Mendoza. The streets are empty!
We're going to Valle de Uzo to visit a winery, like the one from Salentein.
On the highway we see all these old cars that share one thing: They are tightly packed with family, chairs and a table. We assume since traditionally Christmas lunch is with the parents that the parents do not have enough seating, so the guests bring it along...

Well, Salentein is closed for visitors today - it's only open 364 days a year. We drive on to find the posada del jamón and we end up in front of another San Martin monument. And lift the secret of the chairs and table.
All along the road nicely setup, the families have gather under trees in the shade and where possible close to a creek. And I mean they are cramped not like here where everyone tries to maintain his distance when grilling at the river. Furthermore it's like a car museum: heaps of crap cars held together by strings and wires. Quite amazing.
Now we know all the people from Mendoza went.

Back in town we discover where the others (probably without car or a even less reliable car) went: they are in the parque San Martin and hugh green lung. Some policemen warn us about carrying the cameras too visible - we've been lucky so far so we pack them up...

We get an early dinner - could be like 4 o'clock snack. What we didn't realize before, is plain here: all the tourist that cannot adapt to the Argentinian eating schedule. Soon after we're seated the restaurant is full of tourists. Dinner is mediocre. Mendoza is probably the place for wine but less so for meat or we relied too much on the guidance of the hotel staff.

12/24: Touristy Christmas Eve

Bardas Blancas to Mendoza, 500km

If we had more time Sr. Martinez would have shown us his 120 year old gramophone (bitrola) RCA Victor (the the dog insignia) complete with needles (pua) and disks (how did you call them black things?
It's time to say good-bye to Don Lorenzo that suggests a little side-trip where there are no tabanos. We do it, while his distances are precise like a Swiss clock, there are still quite some horseflies buzzing around.

We get to Mendoza and find our reserved hotel. It is quite elegant and the owner is very helpful by giving us several tips for tomorrow and making a reservation for tonight.

Not that we don't feel comfortable being away from family and Christmas frenzy in Europe, but tonight at the restaurant in Mendoza we are for the first time surrounded by tourist only. It's an odd feeling. Locals are all with their family. Unfortunately the meet is only of Chorizo as it is a set menu but still good enough.

12/23: The story of Don Martine'

Junín de los Andes to Bardas Blancas, 700km

A good long drive. A highlight is La Pasarela (simply the footbridge). Well, imagine the river Limmat or Aare is squeezed through a tight black lava bed. For the ones who know the Aar Gorge, forget it, this here is not soft limestone. As the river carries a lot of sand it has not only carved the hard lava but also polished it soft and glossy. Just a few steps away from this place you can experience how rough and sharp the stones actually are. This is truly amazing.

We make it to Bardas Blancas. A village of 5 houses. There is just this one place to stay Hosteria Ruca Mahuida* (actually it was the first building some decades ago). It belongs to Mr. Martinez (but the locals swallow the last letter). If you want to call (to reserve) you need to use the semi-public telephone (02627-480 220). Now this is the way it works: you call and tell the person to get Lorenzo Martinez on the phone in let's say an hour and then you call back at the agreed time and L.M. will be answering...

While the cueva de la bruja can only be done with a local guide from Malargüe, we are going to see the petrified forest. It's 6 km from the South entrance to the village, indicated with "Bosque". You drive through a tree-lined corral with some indigenous farmers (could hardly understand what they were saying) and get to a gate. If it is closed you are lucky because it's closed and you get to save the entrance money. But you have to walk 1 km (instead of driving). Then you need to look hard and you'll see a petrified log. And that's it. Probably the locals have more petrified trees in the yards than is on display here. Indeed Don Lorenzo has several pieces decorating this center yard... it should be called THE petrified log.

As for the story of Don Lorenzo: Back in 1963 at the age of 22 he went to work as a miner in the Mina Uhemul some 16km away from here. An uranium mine that is. The tunnels at 130 m under ground where just high enough you could kneel (nothing for tall people as he points out). Then he was transferred to Mendoza from 1964 to 79 where he was concentrating the uranium with chemicals that didn't help his health. Till 1990 he then worked in San Rafael, when he retiered early and bought the Hosteria as a ruine. He rebuilt it and opened the hotel. His health problems gone, he is as lively as ever today, although his wife died some years ago.

* Ruca = house; Mahuida = cerro, mountain

12/22: Attack of the Tábanos

Bariloche to Junín de los Andes, 250 km

Today we make of the nicest day drive, definitively the most diverse. From Bariloche we take the 7-like-drive (ruta de los 7 lagos) which takes us along greatest and densest forsts and offers views to seven (?) lakes and some water falls. Unfortunately the weather is not at its best.

Then it gets sunnier as we get closer to Junín. The vulcano Lanín can be seen from far away as almost perfrectly triangular. At the tourist information we get a quick update about places to sleep and eat. We head for the first listing of hotels as we gather that eventhough its employees try hard not to recommend anything they may still omit some things and put the best on first position (just a thought). Indeed the Nuevo Hotel San Jorge is perferct and again we seem to be the only ones, as we can look at every room available. Very nice (and it's a big place, www.hotelsanjorge.com.ar).

If I wondered why I was carrying insect repellent around all the time and why I didn't today - I don't know. But on our little hike to a lava field at the foot of the vulcano we get a first impression of the next days challenges - horseflies and its smaller species. If it makes it easier for you to take: only the females suck blood, the males feed on nectar (in case you didnt' know).

As it turns out Junín is again a perfect place for outdoor activities. Or how the hotel puts it: "Dicen que es un paraíso. No les hagas caso... es mucho mejor." (They say it is a paradise. Don't listen to them... it's much better.) There are even some termal baths at Epulafquen.

12/21: Little Switzerland

San Carlos de Bariloche, 50km

This morning I put on my “Swiss” T-shirt with a flag on it and everything, determined to find some Argentinian Swiss in the Swiss colony. My plan was deteriorated with the first step in the street: I was right, the weather does change daily – there is no rain, but a stiff and cold wind that forces me to go up to the room again (3rd or 6th floor depending on how you count) to get a cap and to through on the fleece pullover. The Swiss T-shirt has disappeared under 3 layers of protection. Back in the street we have a glance at the lake Nahuel Huapi that looks like an ocean with its waves hitting the shore.
Did you know they can make chocolate outside of Switzerland, too? Well, one of the few of such places is Bariloche. Coincidently we walk by an chocolate factory that coincidently is open on Sunday and they happen to have some chocolates that we happen to like. Within 20 minutes we have consumed almost 300g of sweets...
Tata Chango (Fischer) the guitarist at the El Campestre yesterday evening recommended to go to the restaurant Victor Goye at the Swiss colony and have a Curanto (stone and sun). Basically you cook your food by piling it up on hot stones and covering it with soil for two hours. Supposedly good. We find the place no problem, but our chocolate ration earlier on has killed our appetite. The Swiss colony consists of some chalet-style houses (never seen any like those in Switzerland) arranged like in Disneyland.
We make some serious picture stops (no one would like to travel with us) and end up in the famous Hotel Llao Llao having a club sandwich and a coke in the second row. I guess we do not look according to their standards (that we carry photo equipments equivalent to a car does not count here). The place is gorgeous. Inside all of wood, chalet-style of a different world. A place for a honey moon where a bottle of water costs as much as a bottle of wine in any other restaurant.
Well, my swissness T-shirt is going to stay in Argentina for good.

12/20: Why they are called rainforests

Travelín to (San Carlos de) Bariloche, ca. 400Km

While yesterday we couldn't see the snow-capped mountains because of clouds, today we couldn't either because of rain (and clowds). Since we postulated earlier on that the weather changes very quickly we are being put on a test. Today it almost rained constantly on our trip up North. At times heavily. We drove through P.N. de los Alerces, saw only some woods that ended in the clowds. We headed for some steam trains in El Maitén. It rained but once there we had to get out and take pictures...
Further up, still through forests – rainforests – it still rained, and it rained when we arrived in Bariloche. Weather forecast for tomorrow: rain.

Tonight we had a candle light dinner at a cosy place (much cosier than when the lights were back on) as there was a partial power outage. Now here is the greatest advantage of char coal grilled meat: it can still be done without electricity.

How to pick a look oder Von der Kunst Türschlösser zu öffnen

Kleine Selbstverständlichkeiten können zu wahren Herausfoderung mutieren: Das Abschliessen von Türen.
In Buenos Aires liess sich die Tür mit Kartenleser nicht öffnen, obwohl das Lesegerät jedes Mal grün anzeigte. Die Chipkarte kann auf vier Arten in den Schlitz einführen, aber keine hatte den Sesam-Öffne-dich-Effekt. Den gab's erst wenn man die Türe kräftig zuzog, während man die Karte einführte.
In Tandil handelte es sich nicht ein mechanisches Problem. Die Schlüssel zu Zimmer Drei passen nicht ins Schloss zur Zwei. Irren ist menschlich.
Viele der Schlüssel sehen aus wie bei uns die Tresorschlüssel einer Bank. Mit dem Nachteil, dass sie nicht symmetrisch sind.
Doch in Camarones und bereits vorher in Gaiman stellten wir fest, dass man einen Schlüssel nicht einfach ins Schlüsselloch einführen und drehen kann, sondern dass die eigene Feinmotorik gefordert ist. Steckt man den Schlüssel nicht genügend weit hinein, dreht er im Leeren. Versenkt man ihn ganz, dann schaut er fast wieder zur Tür heraus. Hat man endlich die richtige Stellung, kann es sein, dass der Bart auf der falschen Seite ist und das Spiel beginnt von vorne.
Nach zwei Wochen dachten wir, wir wären schon ziemliche Meister geworden (obschon dies ziemlich relativ ist, da die Argentinier selbst auch fummeln müssen, dies jedoch eleganter bewältigen als wir). Und da kam der Schlag in San Carlos de Bariloche: Das Garagentor. Schlüssel passt auf Anhieb. Drehen lässt er sich aber keinen Milimeter. Man muss den Schlüssel kräftig zur Seite drücken, dann etwas herausziehen und dann lässt er sich ganz drehen. Dass anschliessend die Türe trotzdem nicht aufging, lag daran, dass man ihr noch einen Tritt verpassen musste!
Das Problem endet nicht bei Zimmertüren. Auch der Tankdeckel des Autos hat seine Tücken. Hier haben wir jedoch die einfache Lösung gefunden: Wir übergeben die Schlüssel dem Tankwart, da alle Stationen bedient sind. Der hat dann zwar dieselben Schwierigkeiten, aber wir können schmunzelnd zuschauen.

12/19: Cities - Welsh or not?

Perito Moreno to Trevelin, 500km

We are in Trevelin now. It is or was a Welsh colony. Today at least the architecture has some Welsh influence with its structure and brick walls. I guess after several generations the tradions are very limited (tea and cake seem the only one) and people rather speak the local language than the one of their ancestors. But nice anyway.
Actually that is a big difference to Bolivia or even Chile: All the cities and villages (this one has 9,500 inhabitants) are very typical and not dirty at all. Usually there is a wild mix of modern or new with old buildings. They keep their original flair without inhibiting modern developments and maintaining an interesting flair for tourists like us.
Usually there is a plaza in the center and a overproportionally large avenida that is always paved even if the access roads are ripio (gravel). Everything is tidy, the grass is cut to golf quality, there are street signs indicating the name (there is always a Roca, San Martin street along with other generals and presidents). But again, it is great because we have no problems finding the hotel or the restaurant (obviously for steak).
Unlike in other countries arriving in an Argentinian town is always a pleasure. The tourist information is easily found and from there the other amenities. Unlike in other countries arriving in a Argentinian town is always a pleasure. The tourist information is easily found and from there the other amenities. People are friendly and hotel owners usually pitty us for the tall size and the short beds (different story) and offer Claudio a room with a matrimonial bed, I get the children's bed...

12/18: Rosana's Tire

El Chaltén to Perito Moreno, 700km

Remember when Chatwin was riding a red Mercedes truck (named Rosana) with Paco Ruiz and a tire blew? Well, we passed that blown tire today when driving to Perito Moreno. Compared to Chile (and Switzerland) there is very little debris along the roads. So to see the remains of a truck tire is a rare thing and thus the one we saw en route should almost be a historic memorial of In Patagonia (chapter 39).

Well, we didn't get up at 5 - it looked sort of cloudy. Obviously I looked the wrong way because as we get up the mountain Fitz Roy is surpassing everything in town...

On the way we visited Cuevas de las Manos, 90km detour, worth it, 9300 to 1300 years old hand paintings. On way back we pick up two Polnish (Wojtek and Eddie) that got lost.
Perito Moreno itself is quite origninal. By the way for those with a little Spanish knowledge: It is Perito and not Perrito, the former meaning specialist and the latter dog.

Argentinian Steak

A few thoughts about food - although my thought is pretty one-tracked as you will see. But start with first things first.

Breakfasts are included here. They consist of toast, some cake, maybe cookies, cheese and ham, a juice and tea. Enough to keep us going all day. The time till dinner is bridged with some Läckerli which by the way are great as they last long and taste good (at least for us), at times we have same crackers and on a hike we eat a tablet of chocolate. All from home! And of course water which is way better than in Bolivia as it is mountain water (Mendoza) like at home...
Then for dinner which in Argentina is earliest at 10pm (!) we really dig in. Almost without exception we have beef steaks. Yesterday was the meat highlight with fillet mignon at about 11 Swissies. The meat is great here. Worth the trip alone. Alternatives are limited, even the night we thought we would eat pasta, they didn't have any and the next cheapest option was beef (and good at that). I guess there are veggie side dishes. Chicken is the same price as beef as there are no chickens here - just sheep and cows. We had a platter of sheep as a starter one day, enjoyed it and returned to beef. We also had Salmon in the nation's capital of salmon (Camarones) which was good, but we returned to beef. So there is filete (mignon), (bife de) lomo (next best, without a trace of tendons or fat) then lomo de chorizo (still a great steak, but with a rim of fat). I suspect fish would be the next best alternative as these places along the Cordillera have lots of trout. But then we have that at home, too. And I don't feel like picking fish bones while I could just be licking my fingers from the tenderest meat one will encounter - and the good thing is that the cows were originally from home, too (Simmentaler).

At the beginning we were careful and ordered medium (a punto), but we are now at the bloody (jugoso, rojo, vuelta y vuelta or what ever they want to call it) stage. In most places they overcook it anyways, but no harm done. I think this meet is still tender when it is charcoal.
Both countries, Argentina and Chile, have good wines. So usually we have a bottle for dinner. Quite a challenge for me since after one glass I already feel quite happy, after half the bottle I am walking on clouds. The wines are very good and go well with meat (see above). The price for the gluttony is not a headache next morning but some restless nights with crazy dreams - one of them being: We enter the customs' office. However, it turns out it's in the sky and we are falling towards the ground. They take so long and it's only at the last second that we have the papers signed and passports stamped and we are allowed to pull the parachute... we're still here obviously.

Well, gotta go eat and you best believe it won't be chicken!

12/17: Clouds in the sky

El Calafate to El Chaltén, 225km

As we've seen what there's to be seen in El Calafate we drive off and arrive in El Chaltén at about noon. After polling the different information centers we find a nice room and we are ready to go on a hike in the beautiful valley with huge boulders. Unfortunately no sight of the peaks although the sun is shining on our side. There is very strong winds while we climb and it gets wet when we reach the laguna. As it doesn't look like the fog is going to lift and let us have a peak at Fitz Roy we turn around.

At the restaurant we meet the first Swiss! Claudio and I are decisive that we'll get up at 5 next morning and redo the hike to see that Fitz Roy.

El Chaltén is another place to come back. No wonder it is called the Nation's Capital of Trekking.

12/16: Eternal winds

Puerto Natales t0 El Calafate

Today we went to the Perito Moreno glacier. Its dimensions are 4 to 5 km wide and 50 m high. But only when you stand there you can picture it what that means. It is massive and the ice shines in deepest blue.

This just being an example. Patagonia has to offer so much: I like the wide valleys, the polished mountains and hills. The forests are just amazing as they are like rain forests in Alaska just with different trees. And we have plenty of time to see as the days are very long: The sun probably only sets after 10pm. Well, there is a back draw to this beauty - as always. It's the constant wind that blows and cools you down a fair bit. At times it tears on your cloths at others it's just a breeze. These winds are probably why the weather is so unpredictable, too. It may be raining cats and dogs in the morning and be bright sunny in the evening. Dark grey clouds on your left and deep blue sky on your right. Seeing it form the sheltered cabin of the car it's hard to believe why one wouldn't want to live here. Getting out of the car blows the reasons into your brain - and we have summer hee and the sun's burning down (with some side effects on my loosely covered scalp).

As we have seen the main attraction of El Clafate we only spend one night here. Dinner's steak again. At a restaurant that almost looks like a canteen, but the meat is delicious - top three ranks.

12/15: Double highlight

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales, ca. 100km

Day starts off raining, so we don't get up till the last moment for breakfast. Then the skies clear up and with the hints from the owner we plan a little hike to the Mirador Cuernos.
The trail takes us through meadows, along lakes and wild creeks. Accompanies by constant winds that make it difficult to hold the lens still - luckily there is technology against the shake (Vibration Reduction). The Cuernos are impressive and they make me want to do the whole 5 days trip around the massive.

As we go further into the park we'd like to get a peak on the torres themselves. Well, there is a bridge crossing worth mentioning: it's narrow! I mean narrow that the pickups fold their exterior mirrors to get through, the mini buses have taken them off all the way. We decide not to go to the Hosteria Las Torres but more due to time and weather. Thus we head North to find yet another great water fall to take pictures. And we meet a Basque couple with "lots of time and little money".

Later then we drive back to Puerto Natales because we liked it there, liked the hotel (this time we are the only guests) and the restaurant where we have the meat highlight of the trip so far (filete).

12/14: Endlich Berge!

Puerto Natales bis Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, ca. 100km

Normalerweise würde man nicht annehmen, dass man auf 40m über Meer mitten in einer eindrücklichen Bergwelt stehen könnte. Im Nationalpark Torres del Paines ist es genau so. Die Anfahrt ist trotz sehr grauem Wetter einmal mehr verblüffend: Die weiten Steppen, fast schwarze weil unbeleuchtete Steilwände, dann ein Koloss eines schön gerundeten Felsbrockens. Mäandrierende Flüsse und endlich einen Blick auf die Torres in der Ferne.
Leider kann die Sonne nicht obsiegen, so ist es eigentlich die ganze Zeit ziemlich grau, ab und zu tropft es es ganz wenig.

Vor dem Abendessen fahren wir zum Lago Grey und machen den stündigen Spaziergang über eine Kiesbank zu einer Insel im See. Der Wind ist äusserst stark und böig, so dass das Seewasser wie am Meer Wellen schlägt. Das Sensationelle sind die Bruchstücke des Gletschers (den wir schon vorher von weiten bläulich leuchten sahen). Diese kleinen Eisberge sind so blau, dass man es kaum glauben kann und dies obwohl die kleinen Bruchstücke am Strand völlig transparent sind.

Dies wird eine unserer teuersten Uebernachtungen. Wobei wir nicht nur für drei Betten bezahlen, sondern auch für die ausserordentliche Lage, aber sicher nicht für die Qualität des Zimmers. Der Besitzer ist aber sehr nett und auskunftsfreudig, so dass auch dieser Ort in positiver Erinnerung zurück bleibt. Zudem war das Essen erstaunlich gut.

12/13: Dead sheep

Rio Grande to Puerto Natales

What starts as an every day trip becomes a photographic adventure as we come across some ship wrecks (Amadeo and Ambassador) on the Chilean side. Our time limit of 45 minutes probably turns into 2 hours.

And then there is a deserted estancia San Gregorio (mentioned in Chatwin's In Patagonia). The owners must have fled in disorder as the inside of the shearers has piles of wool and sheep skins and of course that smell that make the whole thing spooky.

Well, after this highly existing stop and a cool drink to wash the sheep down (including a chat with an Argentinian couple) we continue to find another deserted town: Puerto Natales. First night in Chile. The hotel is basically empty and the receptionist has plenty of time to give us advice (a novelty). The town is great and we find this wonderful restaurant where we are talked into having sheep. We decide to have it as a starter - it tastes good - but the maindish is beef again. We try to make reservations in Torres del Paine but have not success (not a big problem as we find out later). Even the owner of restaurant tries to help us.

12/12: Some steep hiking

Ushuaia to Rio Grande, about 250 km

The day starts bright: spots of blue sky and sun patches on the green slopes of the mountains. We head for the Tierra del Fuego National Park just about 20 km East of Ushuaia. Rather than doing the Costera trail (like everyone else) we follow the recommendation and chose Cerro Guanaco trail. "The whole trail goes quite steeply up deep slopes." We laugh about difficulty level strenuous and cannot believe that 5km will take 4 hours one way. That's for the Argentinians. Well six and half hours later we're back. Without reaching the top as we took hundreds of pictures. Probably we just did half of it (this trail is a must and without picture-taking you can probably make it in 2 hours if you're fit as it is a steep one). But the forest is incredible, the ground is very lush green, the bark of the trees shine silvery. And every now and then we cross this picturesque creek. Just too much for the photographer.

At around 6pm we leave Ushuaia already. Sadly because we just started to like the nature surrounding it (the island is worth more exploring than we did if the weather is good, e.g. estancia Harberton). With the greatest sunlight we drive North. The mountains, forests, lakes apear like never seen before in the clear air. Our ride is beautiful. We pass the enchanted forests again, see creeks wind through the grass land (yes, it's flat again). The Atlantico Sur is at its best in this light.

Unfortunately our hotel is already complete but we find anotherone on problem and enjoy the slightly old patina, especially the elevator is cool with two doors and the small of mechanics.
Dinner? Oh, yes, it's steak.

12/11: Meet Shackelton

Rio Grande to Ushuaia, about 250 km
Today we reach the South Pole. Not quite there are still some 35° in latitude to get there. For us, Ushuaia is most Southern outreach of our trip and our lives!
The journey takes us a “last” time through the steppe and about 30 minutes before getting to Ushuaia all of sudden there are trees. At first only the bleached white skeletons of trees. The scenery is eerie as it really looks like a forest graveyard. Then steadily the white turns green till there are thick forests.
Seeing the Bahia Golondrina from atop is spectacular. The Beagle Channel meanders to the horizon. Ushuaia is a patchwork town. Probably not unlike a hundred years ago. New buildings are mixed in with some old ones. There is any shop imaginable. It's very busy for us. And even if it is touristy it is not bad. It has the charms of Davos in Switzerland: great setting combined with not so nice houses.

We take our first hike to the “mini” (by the tourist office) glacier Martial. The views down are great although the sky is all gray. The glacier itself is almost nonexistent – basically a snow field. But again the trees surrounding the trail, the white water flowing wildly down are great (like in the Alps ;-).

Before dinner (which is - without a doubt - Tenderloin steak) the weather clears and the sun breaks through and reveals that clear light again.

12/10: Paper war

Puerto San Julián, AR to Río Grande, CL

Today's another long distance trip. We need to step back to when we made the car reservation three months ago. For 100 USD we would get ex- and import papers for the car. These papers are necessary to cross the border with an Argentinian car driven by Non-Argentinians to Chile.

Unfortunately the papers were not ready when we arrived in Buenos Aires. We were told that this is no problem - happens (probably always). They would send us the form to any city along our trip by Jet Paq (by Aerolinias Argentinas). Well, we didn't trust it too much and I called and wrote several mails to be sure and today would be the ultimate test.

In Río Gallegos we would pick up the form. With a little help from maps.google.com we find the place no problem with some detours nevertheless. In the office our envelope is found no problem and we have a poor copy of a customs' form in our hands. It worked! And we reward ourselves with a good Italian icecream before we continue our journey.

The border crossing is the first test to the paper war. It seems there are always three counters you need to queue up. In some places there is a paper to allow to track the "customer" in others there is chaos as the lines mix - but it works. So one counter is for immigration (where they stamp the passport), the next one for customs (where they stamp the car form) and the third one is duty (where you pay if you are unlucky). The counters are not in any visible order and you do them twice: once existing the country, i.e. Argentina, and once entering the country, i.e. Chile, and vice versa. If you speak Spanish it's easy but always takes some time (maybe 15 minutes), if you don't it seems to work, too. We do it fourtimes as we enter Chile at Monte Aymond (place exists twice, once on every side) and exit again at San Sebastián (twice, too).

The ferry at Punta Delgada departs every 20 minutes - so you'll never have to wait long. In high season it even runs 24x7. The short trip over can be paid in USD, if you know where. We don't so shortly before disembarquing we are told where to go and indeed we get a receipt and off it goes.
One funny thing. The ferry is big, loads several trucks but it lands like an military landing boat by just pulling up on the shore, no permanent structure...

Río Grande is a busy town. We get a nice hotel that serves good food. I run around to place some phone calls and buying minues for my mobile prepay subscription.

12/9: The plane that sunk two British ships

Camarones to Puerto San Julián

Today is driving day. By coincidence it seems that Claudio always hits the long stretches (we take daily turns driving) - let the better be in control!

The air gets cleaner here. We arrive in San Julián, yet another of those quiet pictoresque Argentinian towns, with a deep blue sky. We quickly check in at the hotel with a Mirage in its front yard. It proudly shows two ships sunk - yet another monument to the Malvinas are Argentinian - maybe one day. The town has this great mix of old and new again. And its church has quite surprising shapes.

12/8: 416 years after the penguins' revenge

Gaiman to Camarones

In 1592 the Desire's "sailors clubbed 20'000 penguins to death. As they had no natural enemies and were unafraid of their murderers. John Davis ordered the penguins dried and salted and stowed 14'000 in the hold." (B. Chatwin, In Patagonia, chapter 45).

Punta Tombo is where you get to see more Magellanic penguins - than you would think. You arrive at the entry point of the reserve and park. You walk up a trail marked with white stones to the left and right and you are not supposed to step outside the trail (Claudio tried and was instantly attacked by a penguin, well no, by a guardaparque (Park Ranger)). Then you get up a hill and you see the first few penguins, some with their chicks. As photographer you through yourself into the dust and start clicking away. Only later you realize that these were just the samplers, because there are more than 100'000 hatching here. It's really funny to see them walking around, hopping up a rock, jumping down a ledge and basically falling down on their bellies. Then they get to the shore (some need to walk at least a kilometer from their nest) and once they are in their element the become those agile animals that playfully swim in the waves before they disappear to hunt - you definitively wouldn't want to be pecked with their peckers!

A little late we arrive in Camarones, known as the Nation's Capital of Salmon and the birthplace of the Perón family clan. It's a quiet nest reached from the North by a gravel road, left westwards on asphalt. The tourist information is again friendly but not really helpful. But as one of the two hotels is fully booked by workers (petrol industry) we pick the other one. All tiptop.

We rush probably to the biggest highlight of the town: the natural reserve of Cabo dos Bahías. We just arrive when the ranger is about to close it (8pm). But he lets us in anyway :-) and tells us we could also have had shelter and food at the club nautico in the park...
We are alone in the park. You hear the penguins from far as the sounds they make is very similar to donkeys. And there are about 50'000 in numbers. I think they are much more active now and we happily click away undisturbed by other visitors (but always within the limits!). A second great experience of the day.

Back at the hotel it's time for ... steak, whereas Claudio opts for salmon. Both excellent.

If you want to know how the penguins took revenge some 400 years ago: "In them (the penguins) bred a 'loathsome worme' about an inch long. The worms ate everything, iron only excepted - clothes, bedding, boots, hats, leather lashings, and live human flesh. The worms gnawed through the ship's side and threatened to sink her. The more worms the men killed, the more they multiplied." - For the rest of the story of the sailors read the book...

Old cars and traffic rules

Argentina's traffic is civilized and there are no tricks on the road for us Swiss drivers. Well, almost none, as it seems right of way (ROW) and yield are not as strictly handled as elsewhere. It not unlikely that you will get the ROW even though it's clearly signaled that you have to yield. The opposite will be expected from you, too. So, it's just looking out and respecting the other. If he's already rolling and you are slowing down, let him pass – keep the momentum when you have it.
Where there's a big difference is with the age and the state of cars. You'll find the very latest models on Argentina's roads, with a strong tendency for French cars, Volkswagen, Chevrolet and maybe Ford. You'll rarely see a BMW and probably even less often an Audi. No Volvos at all. If you like driving wrecks then Argentina is also your place: Noting like Havana's graceful American cruisers, probably you won't see cars in worse condition even in Bolivia than you do here. Argentinians seem to have no problem at all to drive a car with a wooden rear door or without a fender. In that category of car Ford (Falcon) is very well represented along with Fiat (mainly 500 with crooked wheels, no color, missing lights) and some French Peugeots or Citroëns (even 2CVs).

12/7: A cup of tea, please, and some black cake

Puerto Pirámide to Gaiman

Today it's a short trip only. We get to visit the Welsh colony. The trip first takes us along the shore line where we test our Ford Ranger for its hill descent and ascent capabilities - and succeed.

We arrive in Trelew on a Sunday after noon - it's deserted. The tourist info is open thought - the ladies are doing homework with there children. Once again very friendly but they just do not want to suggest anything that we should absolutely see, rather we get a list of things we might do... So we decide to go to Gaiman - famous for its teas and cakes!

We end up in the tourist information where we're well informed about the hotels with prices and things we could do. So we head out walk through a pitch dark old train tunnel where we're almost smudged against the wall by cars... Gaiman has a nice mix of old and restored Welsh buildings.
Finally we find the the cake & tea place where we enjoy a great tea brew together with butter bread and different finger-licking cakes and pies. At the place we also meet a old couple (he ex-Welsh, she from Barcelona) that are travelling on public transportation - they leave us thinking if we are actually getting up early enough in the mornings!

12/6: The Island and the Penguin

Peninsula Valdés

We Swiss have it, too, an UNESCO biosphere reserve, however this one is just about 20 times larger and you're allowed to drive through it. We are early (but not that early) and on our route we're basically alone. First time ripio (gravel) on the road - hurray! We do it clockwise as we were told to watch the high tide at Punta Norte because we might see Orcas that can only swim to the shore when the water floods the riff. No luck in that area. Nevertheless it's impressive to see the water slowly or actually rather quickly cover the green patches of the riff.
(Later we hear that some Orcas were seen at Punta Norte - this is something we have to learn, there is always someone that has seen more or better things. Which is not even hard to imagine as we are constantly surprised about what we see.)

Our trip continues down the East side where we stop along the Caleta Valdés, a 50km long outlet that is framed by something like a large pebble shore towards the Atlantíco Sur. Deep blue colors against dark stones - a photographer's dream. Till the photographer sees the first wild penguins (Magellanic Penguins are about 50cm tall). And we do see them shortly before reaching Punta Cantor and are excited. Excitement translates into many pictures (we don't know about the hundred thousands of penguins just further down South).

At Punta Cantor then the masses of tourists are about to leave and let us enjoy the sea lions (Mirounga Leonina or elefantes marinos) close up. Actually Argentina is doing a lot to protect the wildlife from being disturbed, so there are always sidewalks and fences to keep us from getting too close. Somewhere we picked up this:
"La tierra no la heredamos de nuestros padres solo la tomamos prestada de nuestros hijos."
Earth is not inherited from our parents but just borrowed from your children.

While at lunch time we get to know the patagonic winds towards the evening when the sun is less strong they really start to cool down and at 6pm I start to be cold - just wearing a T-shirt.

As the sun starts to set (it sets for a long time!) we are alone on the road again and spot quite some more animals on our way back: the Guanaco (the wild form of a Lama), Ñandú Petiso (the Argentinian answer to the ostrich) and even some Mara (probably the most surprising animal, it's a rabbit on long legs or a small dog with rabbit ears).

The day finds it's end with a tasty steak of seal, er, beef.

12/5: Moby Dick at starboard

Carmen de Patagones to Puerto Pirámide on peninsula Valdés, about 540km

It's amazing how straight the roads are. I have the impression that they can be tens of kilometers long, dawn with a ruler. The scenery changes to Savanna, no more corn fields and cows. Also the weather changes – probably typical of Patagonia – from cloudy to spotless blue sky. And it's flat, only every now and then there's a little hill, then the only signs of civilization are the road, the fence and the power lines. Now and then we kill a tarantula on the road that doesn't yield to our right-away.

We get to Puerto Pirámide at about 4pm (or as we find out later at 3pm). The Atlantic Ocean is flat like a mirror. A rare thing we are told at the tourist information. The lady recommends to try to get on a sunset boat trip in the bay as there are still a few Southern Right wales here.
We get really lucky and still spot two mother-baby pairs. We follow them a bit – they are not as playful as they could be, nevertheless it is still impressive to be so close to these pacific mammals. Especially when the engines are turned off you can hear the hissing sound through their blowholes. And actually seeing this at the sunset adds to the experience. A month earlier there are still many whales in the bay (Golfo Nuevo).

At the hotel of ACA (the Argentinian version of AAA) I get a massive discount of 30% for being a member of the Swiss automobile club (TCS). This discount exends to meals (15%), too. So the stay in this village is a steal.

Promises

Carmen de Patagones tells a story of history and economy in a nutshell.

This town was founded by Maragatos (the Maragatería includes some areas like Castilla y León in Spain). The Maragatos living in an area of low agricultural output started running transportation businesses in the 18th century and got quite successful at it (and began building large stone buildings).
In the middle of that century a grave economic crises raised produce prices dramatically and had a notable impact on consumption. As a result transportation needs declined and the Maragatos saw their wealth evaporate.
So the public offering of 1778 must have sounded like an easy way out. Spain published land, seeds, tools and a salary to those families that were willing to "move" to (South) America.
So in the group of emigrants that were contracted and gathered in La Coruña there were some of Maragatería that eventually would land at the spot of Carmen de Patagones today.
Of course besides the land there were none of the other promises. They didn't even have houses so the Spaniards decided to scratch them out of the sandstone along the river of Río Negro: Cuevas de maragatos. And they persisted and Carmen survived till present day.

12/4: Drive baby, drive

Tandril to Carmen de Patagones, 700km

We had some half-moons (medialunas or little sweet croissants) as breakfast. Today is our first long-distance drive from Tandil to Carmen de Patagones of about 700 km. As the days are long we lose our feeling for time. We arrive at around 6pm in Carmen, stroll around, look for a place to stay (Residencia G., 100$/28USD) and then it's 9 o'clock. As we just had a crack lunch (cracker, chips) we are in need of some real meat - but get to wait till 9.30pm till the restaurant serves food.

Today the weather is overcast but quite hot. We see some mini-tornadoes and as a high light a red, yellow and green harvester doing what they do on a huge field. Unlike yesterday corn fields are predominant today.

As the days are long we lose our feeling for time. We arrive in Carmen at around 6pm, stroll around, look for a place to stay (Residencia G., 100$/28USD) and then it's 9 o'clock. As we just had a crack lunch (cracker, chips) we are in need of some real meat - but get to wait till 9.30pm till the restaurant serves food.
During our walk through the town/village we seek out the tourist's office. We're greeted personally but the guy seems rather lost and doesn't know what to tell us. So he takes us - very friendly - through a brochure.
Finally we get the restaurant Neptuno at about 10pm – late but still not like locals that seem to drop in till 12am (maybe later but we're gone then). We enjoy the place as the waitress is very friendly. We order lomo Jockey Club – basically a fillet mignon with papas for 30 Pesos (less than 10 USD). First I thought oh no, they overcooked it because it had no bloody center but then it was still so tender and juicy that it didn't matter. We have like three deserts among others sweet cheese which turned out to be cheese and sweets (sweet potatoes) and pancakes (panqueque).
Patagonia – sencillamente diferente: It is simply different.

12/3: Good-bye Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires to Tandil, 350km

Today we leave Bs. As. behind. As we got to bed late we sleep till 8am, have breakfast and check-out by 10am. Then we surf a bit, get a call from home, make the reservation for the 26th when we're back in Bs. As. There are also available hotels in Mendoza over Christmas.

We drive off at around 11.30am and easily get on Highway, err, routa 3. It's past the airport. Immediately out of the city we realize how flat the pampas are. However, the horizon is always interrupted by alleys of trees and little forests. We mostly pass pastures, sometimes corn and wheat fields.

We've got 3057 km ahead of us to Ushuaia.

On the spur of the moment we decide to go to Tandil a bit off routa 3 as the guidebook says we shouldn't miss the old mansion at some corner. We're positively surprised as Tandril is a quiet but not dead town. The streets are busy but in a nice way. At the Plaza Independencia we get some help by the tourist information. Tandil's highlight one hundred years ago was a rocking rock till it fell over in 1902. Now there is an imitation and some other rock standing firm – both we missed as we just strolled leisurely through town. We even strike up a chat or two with locals. We feel very comfy. Tandril's got quite an impressive and atypical church. At the bar El Fuerte we have a sandwich and that our dinner for today. Friendly service. But it takes time like other things, too.

We find shelter at the Hosteria Lo de Olga Gandolfi, Chacabuco 977 (one block off Av. España or 4 from the plaza), (02293) 440258. It's recommended by Claudio's book and costs 150$ (50 USD). And we stock the car with some drinking water as we always feel thirsty.

Yet as we learn later the rocking rock (Piedra Movediza) is what Tandil is really famous for – next time. And it has several nice little parks worth visiting.

12/2: Tango and Steak

What's been the highlight of the day? Steak #2? Or the Tango show in the evening in the old warehouse (el viejo almacén)?

Actually we had a nice stroll through the town. We got up at 7am, enjoyed a good breakfast (for any country outside of Switzerland) and headed to Plaza de Mayo. A fence of the size of the Berlin wall is dividing the square, a black snow plow with water cannons is not waiting for snow nor to start cleaning dirt off the street...

Most of the afternoon after lunch in TGI Friday's we spent at the harbor (Puerto Madero). It's where the expensive condo high rises sprout. Quite peaceful and nice. The town surprises us as very European. It is big with some Avenidas of 22 lanes! It is busy and fairly clean. Bs. As. makes a great start to Argentina.

The sun's been burning on our heads as we realize later at the hotel - we're red-skins now.

The Tango show is impressive - although there could have been more dancing and less singing.

On a side-note: Garbage separation is done at night by the poor. They tear apart all bags and pack up paper, glass, plastics, etc. and of course leave the rest on the street. However, the streets seem clean again in the morning.

12/1: Argentina is different!

After a long trip over Madrid (where we had some three or more hours of waiting time) we arrived at about noon in Buenos Aires (delayed). Luckily we had emergency exit seats (row 37 in an Airbus 340) and were able to stretch our long legs. I could sleep almost the whole trip – my Bose noise canceling headset even filtered the baby cries out (it seemed that they segregated all women with babies in the rows behind us).
At the airport the Sixt guy was waiting for us. The handover was done right at the information stand - very simple. Compared to Hertz this car rental company is trying harder. He offered us to drive us into Capital Federal (for some reason there is an important difference between Buenos Aires and the federal capital) as the Sixt office was close to our hotel.
Our hotel was at Maipú - as we found out later one parallel to Florida, the main shopping strip of town. If you were to go the the Capital federal in winder (that is our sommer) Florida is the street to buy leather jackets: I don't know why but there are trying to sell us jackets at every corner and its about 25°C already (cool for the season).
After check-in we have time for a first stroll through the city. Remember the Falklands war some 20 years ago? It is still a major thing as there are monuments in Bs. As. as in many Southern towns remembering the fact that the "Malvinas son argentinas"...